Monday 16 March 2009

Letter from Royal Leamington Spa: 7 of 2009


My dear family & friends

I didn’t write last week because my computer, a Sony Vaio laptop, failed. I went to check my email one afternoon and the screen looked like a television set with no signal, essentially just a hash of random dots. I fiddled for a bit, rebooting the computer, but it swiftly became apparent that the problem was fairly terminal. I searched for a solution on the Internet in the evening (on an old laptop) and eventually isolated the problem through a public discussion group on Sony’s website. To cut a long story short, the Nvidia graphics chip (the thing that makes the screen work) was faulty and has caused problems for Dell and HP as well as Sony. But knowing the likely source of the problem didn’t really provide much consolation because my computer was four weeks out of warranty. I called the Sony helpdesk in the morning expecting they would demand a lot of money to fix the problem, and was none too happy about it. I couldn’t have been more wrong. After a few questions and checking with his boss, the helpdesk agent said the computer would be fixed in warranty, and that DHL would be around to fetch it the next day. And so it was: DHL picked it up as expected and returned the computer four days later with a new motherboard. The service was clearly exceptional.

I sincerely hope that this is it though. The repair warranty is only six months and I feel a nagging worry that the graphics chip on the new motherboard might also turn out to be a dud in a year’s time. This is my fourth laptop: I have had two Acers and an HPCompaq and I’d never had such a major failure on any of them. I did once bugger the hard drive on my first Acer, but that was entirely my fault.

I won’t bore you with everything we’ve done in the intervening period. Actually I can’t remember. I know I was pissed off about my computer for days on end. That takes a lot of energy. I know Lucia finished painting the wicker and cane furniture for our conservatory blue last weekend. I confess I was a bit sceptical at first, but it looks really good. It’s endowed the furniture a new glossy blue lease of life given that we bought it all at the rubbish tip. In the UK people are encouraged to take useable goods to the recycling office before they toss it in the big skips headed for landfill. The recycling “officers” either take it or they don’t, but, if they do, they then sell it on for a couple of pounds. Everybody wins. To put this into perspective, they must have between 50 and 100 bicycles at the Warwick tip. I’ve seen somebody arrive at the tip, choose a bicycle, pump up the tyres, pay £10 and ride off. The UK is such a “throw-away” society that you can get some exceptional bargains at the tip or any charity shop.

And still on last weekend, we were walking in St Nicholas Park with the dogs when we were accosted by a young brother and sister who adored Edgar and Hazel. Their mother, looking at Edgar said, “Aww, tell me his name’s Scooby.” I said, “Well, no, er, Edgar actually. Who’s Scooby?” which plainly put us in the realm of people who don’t have children. I looked up Scooby-Doo on the Internet when we got home and I don’t think he looks anything like Edgar. She must have been taking the wrong drugs. Either that or she has really poor eyesight. Poor children.

We also had dinner with some people we’d never met before last Saturday night. It happened like this: You may remember that we went for Christmas drinks to the Fosters who are the parents of Lucia’s ex-boss in South Africa. We met lots of interesting people there. One of those people, John (there were quite a few John’s, so I don’t remember exactly which one) has family who live here in Leamington Spa. John said that he’d get them to give us a call, and they did, and invited us to dinner along with a large group of their friends. (In UK style, this was all arranged weeks in advance.) We went to a pub first, then to an Indian restaurant, and then to another pub. It was interesting and fun within the constraints of my memory and my hearing. If you introduce me to more than two people at a time, I struggle to remember their names. So it took me a while to get everybody’s name right. Well, I got the men’s names. Eventually. The other problem is my hearing. In a loud environment, my right ear does its own thing: clicks, pops , bangs, whistles and other assorted noises. So I didn’t really hear everything that transpired. But it was fun. I hope I didn’t talk too much. Or say the wrong thing.

My memory of this past week is much clearer. On Tuesday evening we had Stephen van Coppenhagen and his wife Sue around for dinner. Stephen went to school with Lucia’s brother, Justin. They live in Ireland now. It was lovely to have them: to talk with people whom you can instinctively relate to based on all those nuances of accent, society and socialisation. They were in the area for an art workshop for Sue. Stephen went fishing – and brought us two freshly caught trout. We gave them one of my stir fries for dinner, but Lucia and I baked the trout with spices and onion the next evening, and they were delicious.

Let me jump to Friday. Lucia had to go to London for work and we arranged to meet up in the afternoon first to go to the Bodyworlds exhibition of the work by Dr Gunther von Hagens at the Millenium Dome (now called The O2) in east London, and then to our favourite Portuguese restaurant in Vauxhall for dinner. The Bodyworlds exhibition was really fascinating. Von Hagens developed a technique of preserving human remains by infusing the body with plastic polymers. He has then dissected many of these bodies for public presentation. I suppose that might seem quite gruesome on the face of it, but it’s not. Even Lucia, who wants to faint every time she sees a skinned rabbit at a market in Portugal, was impressed by the exhibition. It certainly gave me a new perspective on life as we experience it, from conception through to old age and frailty. I’m glad I stopped smoking: you really have to see what that shit does to your lungs.

I was also much taken by the Millennium Dome itself; it really is a stunning piece of architecture and engineering. On the way in and out we came across a long queue of people waiting to buy tickets for a promised Michael Jackson comeback concert. WHY? The music is crap and (on the balance of probabilities) he’s a paedophile. Back in my days at The Argus in Cape Town Jackson came to play a couple of concerts in SA. All the financial journalists in Cape Town got free tickets courtesy of a now non-existent insurance company. Halfway through the concert he hauled some young lass onto the stage with him while singing one of his songs. Problem: this young lass did not take it in her stride and just screamed and screamed. Bigger problem: given that she was screaming directly into his microphone, one would certainly expected to hear her verbal incontinence come blaring out of the massive sound system – but all we heard were the sweet, dulcet tones of whatever dross he was allegedly singing. Conclusion: he was lip-synching, the venal shit. Things got a bit ugly as some unflattering catcalls emanated from the press contingent annoying some Jacko fans further forward. Fruit was thrown. Security was called.

But that wasn’t my first experience of Michael Jackson. During the Cape Town leg of this tour, he stayed at the Table Bay Hotel. As it happened, my ex-girlfriend, Fran, was interviewing the American CEO of that pyramid scheme... I’m sorry, I mean multi-level marketing company, Amway, at the Table Bay. Anyway, for whatever reason (another long story) I was fetching her. And it came to be that we were all standing in the lobby of the hotel – me, Fran, the people from the PR company and the Amway folks – when the lobby suddenly filled with security people. Seconds later, a lift door opened and out stepped a little boy dressed exactly like Michael Jackson, followed three paces later by Jacko himself. I yelled out: “Hey, Mikey!” – he looked up – “Who’s the kid?”

You could have heard a pin drop. The Americans from Amway looked like they had swallowed a spoon, Nicola from the PR company turned bright red, and Fran looked like she was about to stamp on my toes. Well, I thought it was funny. Still do.

From The O2 we retraced out steps on the Jubilee Line to London Bridge station to find a shopping concourse called The Vaults. My goal was to find The Savanna, a shop/kiosk selling South African goods. I was disappointed to hear the shop assistant speaking with a distinctly Eastern European accent. (The UK is really clamping down on SA. Even tourists need visas now.) We bought some more biltong and All Gold tomato sauce. (I haven’t made my biltong box yet.)

Then we joined the Friday afternoon hordes on the underground again for the ride to Casa Madeira, the Portuguese restaurant in Vauxhall we enjoy so much for dinner. When you step inside, you are in Portugal. The decor is Portuguese, the staff is Portuguese, the food is (mostly) Portuguese, it has the friendliness of Portugal. I would heartily recommend it to my London correspondents. Even Helder, who runs the Pastelaria Portuguesa here in Warwick, and who went there on my recommendation, says it’s probably the best Portuguese restaurant in London. MI5 is just across the road, but I’ve never seen any spy-like looking people (old Burberry raincoat, dark glasses, wide-brimmed fedora) loitering around. The restaurant is in the arches underneath the railway line. There’s a cafĂ© (typical Portuguese) under one arch, the restaurant under another, and a Portuguese deli under a third. You can hear trains periodically click-clacking over the top of you, but it’s not an unpleasant sound. I had chicken piri-piri (no surprise there) and Lucia had tuna steak done Portuguese style.

We kicked back on Saturday, but on Sunday we went to the beach in Norfolk. It’s only a 500km round trip. (It would be nice if the roads were wide and straight to get there. I wouldn’t like to drive that route on a summer weekend when every man and his dog heads for the beach.) But the sun was shining and I could smell the salt and the ozone. We’re seaside people; we’ve booked ourselves a weekend in Cornwall at the end of this month. I hope the weather stays as balmy as it’s been. Nearly every morning the weather presenters on TV have noted how warm it is for this time of year. I hope that means that we’re actually going to have summer this year.

You can find some more pictures in the usual spot at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/llewellynijones.

Love, light & peace
Llewellyn

Monday 2 March 2009

Letter from Royal Leamington Spa: 6 of 2009


My dear family & friends

The sun is beating down from a deep blue sky. It looks even bluer, almost African when I put my blue-tinted sunglasses on. The birds are singing and the bright colours of the crocuses are pushing up through the grass in the parks and along the roadside. The sun felt so warm on my back as I walked the dogs to favourite coffee shop no.2 in Leamington Spa this morning. Even as I write, the sun is streaming in through my study window. Spring is in the air. Or it would be if the weather forecasters weren’t predicting more winter weather from tomorrow. Bastards.

I don’t have much activity to report. Lucia got sick the week before last just as I recovered. Still, we had Anne, Richard and daughter Polly around for a pleasant dinner on the Friday night last weekend (that is, two Fridays ago) as much to show off our new home as to thank Richard for his invaluable assistance in helping us move. I cooked another stirfry from my Australian Women’s Weekly Stirfry Cookbook. I like cooking stiryfry’s because they’re easy and tasty; almost as easy as a braai (British: barbecue.) The rest of the weekend was spent kicking back, taking things slowly so that Lucia could nurse her cold/flu.

Moving on to the highlights of the week: We bought a new vacuum cleaner. Weyhey, way to go! Beat that! Actually it’s fantastic. There was nothing really wrong with the old one except for the fact that it wasn’t picking up the dog and cat hair from these crap carpets which was driving me to distraction. So Lucia spent hours poring over vacuum cleaner reviews on the internet and we eventually settled on the Miele Cat & Dog which, albeit quite expensive, gets the job done to my specifications and satisfaction.

I also spent a lot of time last week raking the moss out of our grass having covered the alleged lawn with a good sized dose of moss and weed killer and lawn feed. The price of the tools annoyed me once again. The rake cost £17! For a broom handle and a moulded piece of plastic. And even at that price it still sandpapered away the skin in the soft flesh between my thumb and forefinger. When I finished the job it was quite apparent that the previous tenants had not tended the garden well and that the “lawn” was more moss than grass. A proper thick green lawn is important to me because 1) I like it, and 2) the dogs walk less dirt into the house. I also gave a day away to cutting back some of the shrubs and bushes that line the fence.

And speaking of perfect lawns, I was doodling around on Google Earth the other day when I happened to take a look at our old home at Pinoak Road in Cape Town. I was greatly distressed to see that the pool was green and the lawn looking a bit dry and battered. The previous satellite picture on Google Earth clearly showed Hazel paddling in a sparkling blue pool next to a deep green lawn. I felt a bit sad.

My adventure last week was a trip into London on Thursday. You may think I’m a bit mad, but one of the objects of my mission was to go and see the new Westfield Shopping Centre in Shepherd’s Bush. I don’t really like shopping at shopping centres and usually avoid them when I can, but I’m fascinated by the architecture of these structures much like I’m fascinated by great bridges. (I still have to go and see the Millau Bridge in southern France.) As a shopping centre, Westfield definitely gets a thumbs up. It reminds me in many ways of the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront in Cape Town. The roof is mostly made of opaque skylights, which makes for a really light and airy feeling, as do the wide passageways. But I really couldn’t imagine a worse time to open a shopping centre given the global economic downturn. Westfield is quite upmarket and prices are not cheap. For instance, I stepped into the Marlborough shop because I really like their clothes and found a shirt that I desired greatly ... for £77. That’s just silly money and, in my opinion, one has got to be either very rich or a complete sucker to spend that sort of money on a shirt.

I had also intended to catch a couple of markets but I forgot my list at home. Instead I travelled across London on the Central Line to the financial district in the City of London to tour the grand landmarks like the Bank of England, the Royal Exchange (now a small, exclusive (read: very expensive) shopping precinct), Mansion House (home to the Lord Mayor of London), the London Stock Exchange, the Lloyd’s building, the Swiss Re building, the Leadenhall Market, and The Monument. Strange as it may seem, I had never really been interested in these institutions when I visited London before (long before I became a financial journalist.) I confess to being completely captivated by the modern landmarks of the Lloyd’s and Swiss Re buildings along with a couple of hundred other tourists and photographers. (See pictures in the usual spot at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/llewellynijones.)

At The Monument, Christopher Wren’s memorial to the fire of London, I paid my £3 to climb the 311 stairs to the narrow viewing deck 60m up in the air. I must be getting old because I felt really scared up at the top. I remained pressed against the stone column as I edged my way around the viewing deck. It was probably the breeze that unsettled me. Heights have never really bothered me, but it just needs a little wind for me to reach desperately for things to hold on to. It reminds me of my time working as a waiter for a couple of months at the restaurant on the top of Table Mountain years ago while putting myself through university (second time round). Obviously we had to catch the cable car up and down every day, and it wasn’t always apparent what the wind was like on the first cable car up at 05h30. One morning Michael Palin, the ex-Monty Python travel presenter , was waiting with a film crew to join us on the first car up. About half-way up we were hit by a really vicious wind whipping across the face of the mountain. Palin cried out of sheer terror and huddled into a corner of the cab with one of the cooks who was just as terrified as he was. A member of the film production staff caressed his hand and whispered reinsuring encouragement all the way up. I wonder if he has forgiven me for exclaiming “Wheeeeeeeeeee!” Well, I thought it was funny.

Afterwards, I made my way back across London via the Jubilee and Victoria lines to Vauxhall for a late lunch at a Portuguese restaurant on the Albert Embankment called Casa Madeira. It’s a really nice spot; nothing fancy, very friendly, generous portions; the sort of place that transports you out of England to Portugal. The next time Lucia has to go to London for the day for work, I’m going to catch a late (cheap) train into London so that we can go there for dinner.

After lunch I strolled up the Albert Embankment next to the Thames, across the Lambeth Bridge, past the Houses of Parliament, and along Whitehall to Trafalgar Square where I went to the South African embassy to find out where we can vote in the coming election. But they knew nooooothing. Am I really surprised? They told me to call the IEC (Independent Electoral Commission) in SA. It would seem that although the ANC government has failed in the courts to exclude expatriate South Africans from voting in this election, they will do everything possible to make sure that we don’t. Do I hear echoes of Zimbabwe?

Back outside the embassy, I stood on Trafalgar Square wondering what to do next given that it was getting late in the afternoon. I looked across at St. Martins-in-the-Fields and at the advertising boards which promised music nearly every night in this historical church and felt a bit glum that we live so far away. But I crossed the road and went in as a baroque ensemble was practising for that night’s show. I sat in the pews for an hour as they rehearsed Summer and Winter from Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and felt much enriched for the experience. Then I headed to Marylebone Station for the hour-and-twenty train ride home.

This past weekend was quiet again. Lucia had only just recovered from her cold/flu and was looking for a relaxing break after another hard week. She found some more wicker furniture for our conservatory at the tip and spent hours painting it blue. (See pics.) It’s looking rather good.

That’s it for now
Love, light & peace
Llewellyn